Fourth day into surfing, laying on my board, exhausted from paddling, on the East Coast of Australia between Sydney and Brisbane at Woolwolga Beach, waiting for another good wave to take, my surf teacher said: “Well, Mondays for sure could be worse…” and that’s how this text came alive. His sentence really made me appreciate the moment and my life in general here in Australia so much.
Mondays for sure could be worse…
When you get up at 7am, fully recovered after an amazing night sleep. Still a bit sleep-drunk heading to the breakfast area and appreciating the amazing view of a campground right at the beach, surrounded by huge palm trees that slightly move from the ocean breeze. Everything is covered in this beautiful golden light from the sun that just rises and will get stronger and stronger every minute.
You hear the ocean, the waves rolling to the shore while you grab a big bowl of warm oats with lots of cinnamon, sliced apples and banana.
After you refill your energy for the day, you put lots of sunscreen on, grab a wetsuit, grab a board and head to the beach with your surf group. Learning more about waves, good surf conditions, boards and so on from people that could not be more passionate makes you not just super stoked yourself, but also remember the facts a lot better.
And then it’s finally time to head into the water, into the big wide ocean and learning to ride those huge, powerful, scary, wonderful and fun waves.
Walking, paddling, jumping on the board, waiting for the right wave, paddling like crazy and then standing up, the feeling of the power underneath you taking you towards the beach, riding the wave.
What an amazing feeling. I can never get enough of it, even though the paddling is so exhausting and the enjoyment so short. It is worth it all.
But I won’t lie. You also get knocked over, thrown into the “washing machine” of the ocean, drown, don’t know which way is up, have salt water in your eyes, mouth, sand in your ears, hair, everywhere. That’s part of the fun.
Your muscles are sore, your skin irritated from all the saltwater and sun and you are so ready for a refreshing shower when you get out of the water.
Taking a nap or just relaxing for a bit until it is time for lunch. All the good veggies, carrots, salad, tomato, cucumber, olives, onion and chickpeas rolled up into a wrap, cheesy toast or pasta salad, whatever you desire until you are round and full.
Applying big amounts of sunscreen, grabbing a towel, water and my ebook and heading straight to the beach afterwards to spend the whole afternoon reading, sleeping, relaxing, watching surfers, swimming, walking on the beach and of course: sunbaking a lot.
Walking along the beach for a nice quiet space in the sand with some shadows to do some afternoon yoga and stretching to make your sore muscles and your soul feel more grounded.
Afterwards, you head for another cold shower. Washing all the sand, salt, sunscreen and sweat from your skin and hair, moisturizing your skin after all the sun and getting ready for dinner.
Dinner was the highlight of the meals every day, especially when they have amazing vegan options and you also get to eat a super creamy, flavourful vegan Mac’n Cheese.
Sitting next to happy, exhausted, tanned faces from all around the world, getting to know each other, rambling about surfing, travelling and life.
After dinner, the day just stated for some. Others – like me – were happily reading all evening in bed or in one of the hammocks outside under the stars, feeling the light ocean air and hearing the waves breaking until it is time to wander from the reality that could also be a dream into the dream world.
When I think about it, I feel endless happiness, joy, gratefulness and overall love that this is what I call my life. I could not be happier anywhere else and I try to stop myself every day to soak up all the appreciative feeling to remember these happy lucky days forever.